Heirloom Care Guide — How to Maintain Antiques at Home

The #1 Threat

Humidity: Your Antique's Greatest Enemy

Well-maintained antique furniture in a controlled living room environment

Wood is hygroscopic — it absorbs and releases moisture in response to changes in relative humidity. When humidity fluctuates dramatically (as it does in most American homes between summer and winter), wood expands and contracts. Over years and decades, this cycle causes warping, cracking, veneer lifting, and joint failure.

Recommended Indoor Conditions

Relative humidity: Maintain between 40% and 55% year-round. This is the single most impactful step you can take.
Temperature: Keep rooms between 65°F and 75°F. Avoid placing antiques near heating vents, radiators, or fireplaces.
Seasonal management: In New England and the Mid-Atlantic, winter air can drop below 20% humidity indoors. A whole-house humidifier or a standalone unit in the room where your antiques are kept is essential. In summer, air conditioning naturally dehumidifies, but in the Southeast and Gulf states, a dehumidifier may be necessary to stay below 55%.
Monitoring: Invest in a digital hygrometer (available for under $15). Place it near your most valuable piece and check it weekly. Many modern units include a max/min memory function that records the highest and lowest readings, helping you identify dangerous swings.

What Happens When You Don't Control Humidity

We see the consequences in our workshop every week. A solid mahogany dining table that was stored in an unheated garage over the winter developed a crack running the full length of the top — a $3,400 repair that could have been prevented with a $200 humidifier. A rosewood tea caddy stored above a kitchen stove had its veneer bubble and peel within eighteen months. Stable humidity is not optional; it is the foundation of antique preservation.

Cleaning Best Practices

How to Clean Antiques Without Causing Harm

The cleaning aisle at your local hardware store is full of products that will damage antique finishes. Pledge, Murphy's Oil Soap, and general-purpose sprays contain silicones, detergents, and solvents that can strip, cloud, or permanently alter a traditional finish. Here's what to use instead.

Wood Furniture

Routine dusting: Use a soft, lint-free cloth (microfiber is acceptable, but a well-washed cotton flannel is ideal). Dust with the grain, never against it. Avoid feather dusters — they can scratch delicate surfaces and redistribute dust rather than remove it.
Deeper cleaning: Dampen your cloth with distilled water (never tap water, which contains minerals that leave residue). Wipe gently, then immediately dry with a second cloth. Do this no more than once a month.
Waxing: Once or twice a year, apply a thin coat of high-quality paste wax (we recommend Renaissance Wax or Briwax). Buff with a clean cloth in circular motions. Wax adds a protective barrier and enhances the patina without altering the finish.
What to avoid: Never use water on marquetry, boulle work, or pieces with lifting veneer. Never apply oil-based polishes to shellac or lacquer finishes — they soften the surface and attract dust.

Metal Hardware & Brass

Original hardware should generally not be polished to a mirror shine. The patina on antique brass is part of its character and, in many cases, contributes to the value of the piece.
If cleaning is necessary, use a mild solution of warm water and a few drops of dish soap. Dry immediately and thoroughly.
Never use Brasso or chemical polish on antique hardware without consulting a conservator first.

Clocks & Timepieces

Dust the case with a soft cloth. Never spray anything directly onto a clock.
Do not attempt to oil or lubricate the movement yourself. Clock oil is specialized and must be applied in precise quantities to specific points. Improper oiling is one of the leading causes of movement damage we see in our horological division.
Wind mechanical clocks regularly and at the same time each week. A clock that is allowed to run down repeatedly can develop uneven wear in its train wheels.

Placement Matters

Sunlight, Proximity, and Common-Sense Positioning

Where you place an antique in your home has a direct impact on its longevity. Here are the guidelines we share with every client:

Avoid direct sunlight. Ultraviolet light fades and degrades wood finishes, textiles, and painted surfaces. If a piece must be near a window, use UV-filtering film on the glass or keep curtains partially drawn during peak sun hours.
Stay away from exterior walls in older homes. Exterior walls experience the greatest temperature fluctuation. Interior walls provide a more stable environment.
Keep a buffer zone around heating and cooling sources. At least three feet from floor registers, baseboard heaters, and window air conditioning units.
Use felt or cork pads under lamps, vases, and decorative objects. These prevent scratches and moisture rings on finished surfaces.
If you have pets, consider the placement of upholstered antiques carefully. Cat claws and dog nails can damage delicate period fabrics that are expensive and time-consuming to repair.

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A Practical Guide to Caring for Your Antiques